Eyelids washed in color did not expire with the ’80s— L’Oréal Paris’s Collier Strong explains how to wear a strong full lid this fall

A full-on wash of single-tone eyeshadow from the lash line to the brow is a very specific look to pull off. In some senses it’s totally modern and bold, and in others it’s super old school. “It can have a bit of a retro feel depending on the fashion it’s accompanying. The ’80s are back in a big way and this can scream it,” says Collier Strong, L’Oréal Paris consulting makeup artist. “It can also be a very playful take on shadow when colors are used.” However playful it may be, done incorrectly (as in with super-dark shadow), this can turn out quite frightening.

“This can be a more avant-garde look and says as much about the person wearing it,” warns Strong. So make sure you’re up for the challenge this bold eye sets. Lots of factors should come into play when deciding whether you can successfully pull off this look. “What makes it work in real life is the color choice and intensity of the pigment—the more opaque, the more dramatic.” A super chunky glitter shadow, for example, would probably not be a great choice across an entire lid, while something neutral in the taupe, brown or bronze family is a simple starting point.

Neutrals “are the easiest way to pull off this look. Starting at the base of the lash, apply the shadow most intensely, then gradually soften the application as you move upward to the brow,” says Strong, who recommends using a soft powder formula like L’Oréal Paris The One Sweep Eye Shadow. A grayish-silver can also serve as a sort of neutral, like at Chris Benz’s Fall 2012 show. To get a similarly chic, sophisticated wash, try L’Oréal Paris Infallible Eye Shadow in Liquid Diamond.

For those more adventurous types, it is possible to wear a full lid of colorful shadow without referencing the garish ’80s. “I love a dark lid fading into the brow,” says the celebrity makeup artist pro. “You can get a multi-tonal look by using just one shade if blended well.” Navy blue, army green, amethyst or even rust are au courant shades to try this fall. And along with these shades, Strong recommends playing up the cheeks and lips with color in order to go full-on whimsical.

Depending on the color and intensity of application, “this is a look that can be worn at all times and for any occasion.” Just don’t forget to groom the area just above the shadow’s edge: your brows. “Good brow grooming is essential for any makeup look,” says Strong.