Fall runways may have showcased ’90s-tinged blunt cuts and center parts, but that doesn’t mean layers are going anywhere

“Unlayered hair is limiting,” says New York-based celebrity hair stylist Serge Normant, owner of a slew of eponymous salons and a namesake haircare line. “You only get one look.” But despite designers’ proclivity toward the statement-making cut of a sleek, blunt chop, real women are still sticking with layers, although longer ones. “They’re not as shaggy anymore,” notes Normant of layers this season. “Movement is always required,” he says of his haircuts, which he says allows for both flexibility when styling as well as added femininity and sex appeal.

“I do love the blunter feel because it gives a great line to the hair, but if it’s totally blunt, you end up with something that’s triangular,” says the hair guru. “If you’re going to do that, you have to commit to it with something like a Sassoon cut.” Luckily for those wanting to be more on-trend without the limitations straight cuts create, Normant says you can fake it. “You can get the illusion of a blunt cut by underlaying [or cutting shorter layers underneath] to allow everything to fall into place. You should be looking for easiness; it should fall and move. It doesn’t have to be perfectly layered—just go with the feel of it. A blunt cut should still have a bit of movement.”

Normant takes into consideration not only hair texture (with very curly hair, layers should always be on the long side) but also personal style—and lifestyle (i.e., whether you work out a lot and want to pull your hair back in a ponytail, among other concerns). Face shape is more of a concern with bangs and shorter haircuts. For Normant, blunt works better below the collarbone, but always go for balance and the proportions that are most flattering for you. The hairstylist encourages finding a celeb or two whose face shape, hair color and style you identify with to get inspiration. “People are now more attune to what looks good on them via pictures, celebs and the red carpet. There’s not ‘one style’ of person anymore. You can find every kind of face shape, hair color, etc. out there on celebs. People can always identify with one person who has the same head shape and style as them.”