Move over ombré, hair color and highlights are all about surfer blondes this season

Surf style isn’t just penetrating fashion runways and boutiques—it’s become more pervasive than ever in hair. While cult-favorite products like Bumble and Bumble’s Surf Spray have afforded curl-worthy coifs for years, of late blonde ambition seems increasingly influenced by the lightening effects wave-riders get courtesy of the sea and sun. But don’t confuse this balayage look with ombré. “Ombré is much more severe, with a more distinct line,” says celebrity colorist Negin Zand of Sally Hershberger in West Hollywood. “Surfer [highlights] are more gradual and natural, yet definitely visible and noticeable. The ends should be baby-blonde.”

The meticulous color star, whose clients Sharon Stone and Cat Deeley have recently checked in for brighter blonde highlights, likens the look to naturally sunny, shiny children’s hair. “Surfer highlights are not so woven and sectioned as natural hair is never all one color,” says Zand. “It’s darker at the roots and gets gradually lighter at the bottom; underneath it’s darker, but the ends of the underneath hair is lighter. Usually the peach fuzz around the hairline is blonde because of salt water and sunlight.”

Zand takes an artist’s approach to the highlights, using her balayage brush to diffuse the color to ensure it’s not flat or stripe-y. “Once you do it this way, you never want to go back to the way it was before,” she says. “You’re an artist and you paint the picture you believe in.” And this isn’t a seasonal trend. “In the wintertime, your ends will be lighter and it will still have that effect. For brunettes, I recommend caramel and a little lighter on the tips.”

Besides three-times-a-year highlight visits, Zand says the only upkeep is a few fantastic products that she promises work wonders for replenishing and restoring hair (Sally Hershberger Hyper Hydration Super Keratin Spray and Hyper Hydration Soft Touch Shaping Cream), plus Shu Uemura Essence Oil with SPF to protect it from the sun. Because while this rad look is inspired by summer rays, it’s still susceptible to fading. And it’s important to get this effect safely to maintain your hair’s structure. “Balayage placement and timing is everything. If you don’t overlap the same pieces, it won’t damage hair,” she says. “Be sure you go to someone who knows what they’re doing—anyone can achieve this look if it’s done right.”